Only the bold can face this Maasai ceremony
By Isaac Ongiri
Initiates parade outside Impiron village in Loitokitok in readiness to undergo a traditional ritual.
The acrid smell of cow dung mixed with red ochre pervades the atmosphere as thousands of young Maasai youths sit huddled together at the start of their age group’s most important initiation ceremony.
They are about to undergo the Maasai rite of passage into moranism, which has become more symbolic than traditional due to the advent of education and influence on culture by modern times.
Initiates parade outside Impiron village in Loitokitok in readiness to undergo a traditional ritual.
But Maasai elders are keen to maintain the remaining vestiges of the community’s world-acclaimed culture.
And such was the moment when more than 4,000 Maasai morans recently gathered at Impiron village for a special coronation before being ushered into moranism.
The process is punitive, breathtaking, spectacular and largely horrifying to the uninitiated observer.
First, they spend their last night in the jungle before bathing in a slow flowing cold river at dawn.
According to traditional chief Lekato ole Mento, the community has kept its tradition of modeling warriors for protection from "external invasion".
Future army
"The 4,000 young men you are seeing here will be the community’s army. They have to sacrifice, and their courage must be tested to ascertain whether they are ready to become men," Mento states.
Mento was picked to lead eight selected and traditionally anointed old men from the age group whose sons would be graduating through the ceremony. At Impiron village, everything is arranged and order and protocol are adhered to, to the letter.
At the manyatta, the eight old men are in charge; they direct guests arriving for the ceremony and give briefs on the programme as they constantly consult the chief when not sure.
The process in solemn and very important in the lives of the initiates. Each one of them is careful to heed the advice of the elders.
An Elder, Nkiminis ole Mekoki smears special cream on one of the initiates.
Photos: Pius Cheruiyot/Standard
Several groups of young men in the region, some of them from as far as Moshi and Arusha in Tanzania, are also enjoined in the process, controlled by the power of one Oloibon (Maasai elder) Salaal ole Matunda of Kilimanjaro.
"He is the overseer. He advises the community and without his blessings, nothing happens," says Saroni ole Kamei.
The Oloibon has picked a name for the age set of 4,000 youths — "Iltwati".
On the last day, before they receive special blessings from Nkiminis Mekoki, the man the elders have picked to smear a special cream on the warriors’ faces, the morans are treated to a tumultuous reception at the manyatta.
They sing songs as they run around the homesteads with elders standing at each entrance to ensure none of them gets access to the manyatta.
"We do not allow them into the homestead before they spend their last day out and their bravery tested," says Kimonos.
No room for cowards
The rogue ones who are tempted into the manyatta are treated to caning by elders.
"Caning is no punishment. It just signifies the amount of suffering the initiates should expect when they become warriors. It also ensures high standards of discipline," says Mekoki.
While in the bush, the boys try their hands at war with the wildlife. They kill snakes, lions, hyenas and other wild animals.
But for this particular rite, the boys have been advised not to kill lions, and KWS rangers deployed to keep watch as the boys spend time in the wild ensure this.
"We have organised for KWS rangers to be around, not necessarily to interfere but to ensure the lions are not attacked by our warriors," says Assistant Minister Katoo ole Metito, who is a member of the age set whose first born sons are graduating.
Metito says the ceremony that is planned every seven to eight years costs the organisers close to 150 cows, as it runs for 30 days.
"I don’t know how much that can cost us because we don’t bother as long as the ceremony is successful," says Nkiminis.
On the final day, guests from all walks of life are invited, with juicy nyama choma (roast meat) available in plenty.
The boys are well fed, and then they each take blessings from the anointed man Nkiminis, who together with his wife and son smears "blessed" oil on each and every face.
Final stage
Those who qualify at this stage are then circumcised and declared warriors and mandated to be in charge of the community security.
According to Metito, the initiated and circumcised group will undergo another ritual known as eunoto as the previous morans hand over to them.
The minister, however, says modernity is fast catching up with the cultural practice that has survived the years.
"They cannot kill lions like we did but only snakes. They can also not practice moranism all through because they have to go to school," he adds.
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